Giacomo Borgogno: Guardians of Barolo’s Old Vines
Giacomo Borgogno: Guardians of Barolo’s Old Vines
Founded in 1761 by Bartolomeo Borgogno, a farmer with vision ahead of the times, Giacomo Borgogno is Barolo’s most historic winery—an enduring symbol of tradition with a bold eye toward the future in the heart of Le Langhe. For over 260 years, Borgogno has remained faithful to its roots, producing wines with time-honored practices such as fermentation in concrete tanks and aging in large Slavonian oak barrels. Today, the winery stewards 52 hectares of vineyards across Barolo, La Morra, Alba, the Colli Tortonesi, and Castino, all cultivated organically and sustainably.
At the heart of Borgogno’s identity is a reverence for the older vineyards, our living witnesses to the evolution of Le Langhe. These venerable vines not only provide a rare genetic heritage through continued massal planting, but they give life to some of the estate’s most prized wines: the Barolo Riserva’s and the Barolo single vineyard “crus”. Three historical vineyards, Liste, Cannubi, Cannubi San Lorenzo, and Annunziata, are the pillars of this philosophy.
Liste, in Barolo, is the oldest and most iconic of the Borgogno “crus.” First cultivated by Bartolomeo himself in the 18th century, it remains the spiritual core of the estate. With 3.7 hectares of Nebbiolo vines, of which 2.4h were planted between 1946 and 1985, Liste expresses power, yet restraint. Its south-facing slopes, calcareous marl soils, and particular microclimate, shaped by surrounding truffle forests, give rise to structured, vertical wines with balsam undertones and refined tannins. The Barolo Liste Riserva, and a part of the Barolo Liste, are sourced from the oldest vines, encapsulating the soul of Borgogno: austere, complex, and age-worthy.
Cannubi and Cannubi San Lorenzo, in Barolo, are among this Commune’s most storied vineyards. Borgogno cultivates 1.3 hectares here, with 0.67 hectares dating from 1976 to 1988. These mid-slope, sandy-marl vineyards produce wines of remarkable finesse and aromatic precision. From these old vines, Borgogno crafts both Barolo Cannubi Riserva and Barolo Cannubi, wines that honor one of the region’s most celebrated terroirs.
Annunziata, in La Morra, offers a different expression of nebbiolo. This small 0.9-hectare vineyard includes 0.23 hectares planted in 1956. Its wines, especially the Barolo Annunziata Riserva, are noted for their elegance and silkier texture, reflecting the gentler slope and soil composition of the area. These old vines lend a quiet depth and purity to the wine, showing the finesse possible from time-tested massal planting.
“The decision to bottle each of these old-vine parcels separately stems from a deep respect for their individuality and resilience,” says Andrea Farinetti, winery owner and vigneron. “We must preserve the ancient clones. They are better adapted, more expressive, and give wines that are truer to their place.”
Today, Borgogno continues its legacy with the same rural humility and pride that began in 1761. With every old vine preserved and each Barolo wine from the estate telling a story of patience, history, and a land that still speaks through its vines.
