Masseria Le Fabriche, Puglia, Italy

The estate is centred around a restored 17th-century masseria

 
 
 

Rising from the sun-baked landscapes of Puglia’s Ionian coast, Masseria Le Fabriche is a place where old vines, ancient olive trees, and centuries of rural heritage converge in a single, living landscape. Near Maruggio, in the heart of the Primitivo di Manduria appellation, the estate is centred around a restored 17th-century masseria, surrounded by vineyards, Mediterranean scrub, and the luminous horizon of southern Italy.

The estate spans around 120 hectares, with 40 hectares under vine and an annual production of approximately 15,000 bottles. Primitivo and Aglianico define its viticultural identity, yet the emotional core of the estate is found in the historic Bagnolo vineyard — three hectares of Primitivo planted in 1975, now considered one of the estate’s most expressive old-vine sites.

 

The winery grows the Primitivo and Aglianico varieties

 

Bagnolo is a vineyard shaped by determination as much as by soil. Its vines originate from massal selections taken from traditional alberello vineyards of Manduria, preserving a living genetic link to the area’s viticultural past. At the time of planting, the site was widely considered unsuitable for vines: shallow red soils, fractured limestone, and a rough, stony terrain bordering ancient olive groves made it a marginal choice. Yet this very adversity became its defining strength, thanks to the vision of a grower willing to cultivate where others would not.

When planted, the shallow red soils of the area made many consider the site unsuitable for vines

Today, the vineyard is a complex mosaic of alberello, guyot, and cordon spur training systems, set within a natural amphitheatre of Mediterranean vegetation. Biodiversity is integral to its identity, with wild herbs, olive trees, and native flora forming a self-regulating ecosystem that supports vine health and resilience.

 

Bush vines grow alongside olive trees and other Mediterranean vegetation

 

From these old vines comes MarrubiuM Riserva del Bono 2022, Primitivo di Manduria DOP, crafted in collaboration with winemaker Mattia Vezzola. The wine expresses a refined interpretation of Primitivo, balancing structure and depth with freshness and precision.

As Vezzola observes in a broader reflection on wine, identity, and time:
“The true value of wine does not lie only in its immediate quality, but in its ability to travel through time, to evolve and reveal itself. Quality is the starting point; the goal is uniqueness.”

This philosophy mirrors the estate’s understanding of its old vines. Their deep root systems allow them to access water reserves far below the surface, giving them natural resilience in the face of heat and drought. Over decades, they have achieved a remarkable equilibrium with their environment, producing consistent, expressive fruit even under climatic pressure.

Le Fabriche’s commitment to these vineyards extends beyond winemaking. The estate views old vines as a living cultural and genetic archive that must be preserved — not only for their enological value, but also for their role in maintaining the historic landscape of Manduria.

Equally central is the estate’s hospitality dimension. Within the restored masseria, a boutique accommodation offers guests an immersive stay among vineyards and olive groves, where the rhythms of rural Puglia can be experienced at their most authentic.

At Masseria Le Fabriche, old vines are not relics of the past, but enduring witnesses to resilience, identity, and the evolving soul of Primitivo di Manduria.

Images supplied by winery

 
Anna Harris-Noble

Regional Ambassador for Spain, Anna has been working in the wine industry in Spain and the UK for over 20 years, including a period heading up the UK Wines from Rioja account. She has carried out translation and marketing projects for some of Spain’s most important wine companies. She is a fluent Spanish speaker and WSET-certified educator.

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