Agricola Felline, Puglia, Italy
Harvesting 70-year old Primitivo bush vines, known locally as “alberello” (little trees) in the Mirante vineyard
On the southern edge of the Primitivo di Manduria appellation, where vineyards meet Mediterranean scrub and the Ionian Sea lies just beyond the coastal horizon, Agricola Felline stands as one of Puglia’s most articulate interpreters of terroir and old-vine heritage. The estate spans around 60 hectares, with 50 hectares under vine and an annual production of approximately 450,000 bottles. Its vineyard mosaic includes Primitivo, Negroamaro, Susumaniello, Verdeca, Fiano, and Vermentino, reflecting a rare diversity for the region anda deep commitment to territorial expression.
At the heart of Felline’s identity lies a tiny but extraordinary vineyard: Mirante. Just half a hectare of Primitivo planted around 1950, these 70-year-old alberello vines produce only around 4,000 bottles of Dunico 2019 Primitivo di Manduria DOP. Though small in scale, Mirante represents the essence of the estate—old vines as cultural memory, genetic heritage, and living landscape.
The vineyard survived the post-war Agrarian Reform of 1948, when large estates were broken up and land redistributed to farming communities. Its sandy coastal soils were among the least valued—poor, difficult to access, and exposed to the sea. While many abandoned such terrain, determined growers persisted, planting vines where land meets coastline, preserving a now-vanishing viticultural landscape now considered among the most fragile and precious in Manduria.
Today Mirante is one of the rare remaining sandy vineyards of Manduria, located just 100 metres from the sea. Constant southern winds bring salt onto the vines, naturally thickening grape skins and shaping a Primitivo of striking tension, elegance, and saline depth. Strong day–night temperature shifts further enhance freshness, aromatic precision, and long ageing potential.
Gregorio Perrucci, the owner of Agricola Felline believes old vines must be protected
Gregorio Perrucci, owner of Agricola Felline, explains: “We are aware of the extraordinary value of old vineyards, not only for wine quality, but as testimony of ancient agriculture, resilience, and sustainability. They are also a landscape heritage that must be protected from the advance of coastal cementification.”
These old vines are perfectly adapted to extreme conditions: shallow sandy soils, drought stress, wind exposure, and salinity. Their deep acclimatisation ensures natural balance and reduces intervention, while supporting biodiversity across a fragile coastal ecosystem. Yet they remain economically demanding due to extremely low yields and intensive manual work, reinforcing their rarity and value.
Felline’s broader vision is built on zonation across four soil types—red earth, limestone, black soils, and sand—making it one of the most complete expressions of Manduria’s diversity. Within this framework, old vines act as genetic anchors, preserving viticultural memory and guiding future planting decisions.
The winery makes wines from the Primitivo variety as well as sparkling wines from Vermentino
Looking forward, Felline sees these vineyards as a foundation for continuity, working with partners such as Masseria Le Fabriche to safeguard and propagate historic material for future generations. In Manduria, even local tradition reflects this legacy: during the feast of San Gregorio Magno, fava bean purée is eaten with Primitivo grapes from coastal vineyards—once marginal, now revered. At Felline, old vines are not only heritage, but a living compass for the future.
Website: agricolafelline.it
Instagram: @agricolafellini
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Photos supplied by winery