Tenuta Cocci Grifoni, Marche, Italy

Harvesting the historic Vigna Messieri parcel

In the rolling hills of southern Marche, between the Adriatic coast and the Sibillini Mountains, Tenuta Cocci Grifoni has spent more than a century shaping a story deeply intertwined with the region’s viticultural heritage. 

Today, the family-run estate cultivates 65 hectares of vineyards planted to native varieties and resistant grapes, producing around 480,000 bottles annually while continuing a spirit of research and experimentation that has helped shape Marche viticulture since the early twentieth century. Fully organic, Vegan, and Equalitas certified since 2024, the estate combines sustainability, hospitality, and a deep commitment to preserving the agricultural identity of the territory.

Diana, Marta, Marilena, and Camilla of the Cocci Grifoni family that has been running the estate since 1933

At the heart of Cocci Grifoni are two historic vineyards that embody the estate’s philosophy: the Vigna Madre Pecorino and Vigna Messieri. More than old vineyards, they are living archives of Marche viticulture, shaped by decades of adaptation to the area’s soils, slopes, and climatic conditions.

The story of Pecorino at Cocci Grifoni has become part of modern Italian wine history. In 1982, Guido Cocci Grifoni learned of an almost-forgotten ancient grape variety surviving near Arquata del Tronto. Determined to rescue it, he tracked down the remaining vines in a semi-abandoned vineyard, grafted cuttings onto his own land, and shared both plant material and knowledge with local growers. Between 1984 and 1990, he experimented with different sites before discovering that Pecorino thrived in cooler hillside vineyards. In 1987, he planted what remains today the estate’s original mother vineyard.

Guido Cocci Grifoni and the Pecorino grapes that he helped recover

Located at 180 metres above sea level with a north-west exposure and steep 25% slopes, the one-hectare Guyot-trained vineyard is now over 40 years old. From these vines comes the Offida DOCG Pecorino “Guido Cocci Grifoni,” produced in tiny quantities of around 1,500 bottles annually. The wine is prized for its precision, freshness, and remarkable ability to age.

The Vigna Madre Pecorino vines are over 40 years of age

Equally significant is Vigna Messieri, the estate’s historic Rosso Piceno Superiore cru overlooking the winery in Ripatransone. The oldest Montepulciano vines date back more than 50 years and were already part of the estate when it belonged to Guido’s grandfather, Vincenzo Cocci Grifoni, giving the site a profound continuity across generations. Situated on steep south-west-facing slopes between 200 and 250 metres above sea level, the vineyard combines traditional row orientations adapted to the terrain’s demanding incline.

The historic Vigna Messieri is home to 50 year-old Montepulciano vines

First released in 1987, Vigna Messieri remains faithful to the classic Rosso Piceno blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese. Around 6,500 bottles are produced annually, with the maturity of the vines delivering concentration, balance, and longevity.

For the Cocci Grifoni family, preserving these vineyards is both an agricultural responsibility and a cultural mission. Over the decades, the vines have developed a natural adaptation to the specific pedoclimatic conditions of the area, preserving precious genetic traits linked to resilience, balanced production, and grape quality. Their deep root systems allow them to withstand drought and climatic stress while maintaining natural equilibrium in the vineyard.

The family motto, “Whoever has vineyards, has worries.”

These old vines are therefore far more than historic plants. They are reservoirs of biodiversity, guardians of local genetic heritage, and enduring expressions of Marche’s identity. As the family often says, “Chi c’ha vigna c’ha tigna” — whoever has vineyards has worries — a phrase that perfectly captures the dedication required to protect vineyards that continue to tell the story of their land through wines of authenticity, elegance, and longevity.

Website: tenutacoccigrifoni.it

Instagram: @tenutacoccigrifoni

Facebook: @tenutacoccigrifoni

LinkedIn: Tenuta Cocci Grifoni

Photos supplied by winery

The winery makes wines from old vine Pecorino, Montepulciano and Sangiovese